Marghab Linens and the Art of Authenticity

Because of that reputation, the word “Marghab” is often misused. Many sellers casually apply the name to any Madeira embroidery. Here’s how to recognize true Marghab.

Though a very small number of Marghab linens had “Marghab” or an “M” stitched discreetly in a corner, these were rare.  Most Marghab linens were sold with paper labels, which could include not only the pattern number but also the specific pattern name — for example, Pine Cone.

Because paper tags were removed when linens were used, many authentic Marghab pieces now lack labels. Unused sets, however, can still be found with labels intact. But while a surviving label can provide valuable confirmation, Marghab labels (or boxes) alone are not proof of authenticity — they have sometimes been found together with linens that were simply not Marghab. True identification still rests on design, fabric, and workmanship.

Marghab is best identified through its catalogued patterns, the original designs commissioned by the Marghab firm and executed by Madeira’s most skilled embroiderers. Most carry both a name and a number, such as Carrots & Peas (#699), Deer (#476), and Wheat (#250).

These established patterns remain the most reliable guide to Marghab authenticity. Yet no single comprehensive catalogue exists. Even valuable works on Marghab, like PJ Cline’s Perfection Never Less, cover only part of the story. Identifying Marghab demands research, careful comparison, and above all, familiarity with the documented designs.

But recognizing the patterns is only the beginning; the quality of the fabric and embroidery matters just as much. Sometimes pieces that look very much like Marghab aren't Marghab at all. 

For Marghab designs, the linen itself was a standard of excellence. Woven in Ireland from Belgian flax, lighter and smoother than ordinary weaves, it has a soft hand, a graceful drape, and the strength to withstand decades of use. Irish linen of this quality is beyond rare today.

For organdy pieces, Marghab used Margandie, a proprietary fabric woven in Switzerland exclusively for the firm, transparent yet durable enough to support intricate embroidery.

Marghab also offered some designs on Marcasual linen, a more textured and heavier weave with a relaxed feel.

Built on these foundations, the embroidery is meticulous — every stitch exact, every line steady, the handwork so precise it makes the motifs feel sculpted on linen.

Equally important are the hems and borders. Marghab rarely left an edge plain; borders were almost always exquisitely finished, and often with delicate detail that matched the quality and artistry of the embroidery.

All Marghab linens were made in Madeira, but not all Madeira embroidery is Marghab. Other workshops produced fine and even spectacular designs, but Marghab was distinct in its consistency and quality control.

 • Hems & Borders: Madeira hems are often beautifully done, but Marghab’s went further. Borders were designed and executed with exceptional care and density — the kind of additional stitching and time that signaled true luxury.

• Techniques: Marghab employed the full range of Madeira stitches with mastery but generally avoided Richelieu cutwork and broderie anglaise (eyelets). These are common in Madeira embroidery overall, but rarely seen in Marghab, apart from a few specific patterns.

Because the Marghab name carries weight, it’s often misapplied — sometimes carelessly, sometimes deliberately. The surest way to avoid being misled is to watch for these red flags:

 • Unknown patterns passed off as Marghab when they don’t match a known design.

• Embroidery without Marghab’s signature discipline: Beautiful Madeira work exists, but Marghab is set apart by its unwavering perfection.

• Edges left plain: Marghab almost always finished hems with care and fine detail.

• Heavy cutwork or eyelets: Richelieu or broderie anglaise may be common in Madeira embroidery, but they are not characteristic of Marghab.

 • Vague descriptions: Listings that say “Marghab style” or “Marghab-like” almost always mean the piece is not Marghab.

The hallmarks of Marghab are clear: a documented and graceful design, linen of superior quality, meticulous embroidery, and borders finished with care. If those elements are missing, it isn’t Marghab.

True Marghab pieces endure because of their quality. The fabrics were chosen for longevity, the embroidery worked with a discipline few workshops could match, and the finishing elevated even the borders into artistry. Some, like Scroll Fish, turned the border itself into a masterpiece.

This balance of beauty, utility, and artistry is what makes Marghab unique — linens intended to be used, admired, and preserved. For the connoisseur, authenticity is not just about attribution alone, but about experiencing the finest Madeira embroidery achieved.

Marghab linens embody the highest expression of Madeira embroidery: original designs, Irish-woven linen, and workmanship held to an uncompromising standard. To recognize them is to understand the difference between what is merely beautiful and what is truly exceptional.

At Things Most Delightful, we specialize in authentic Marghab linens — carefully researched, preserved, and presented with confidence in their provenance.

Explore The Marghab Collection.